Do you mark up chemicals?

No. Chlorine tabs are purchased at cost and left on site — you pay exactly what we pay. All other maintenance chemicals (liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate, soda ash, baking soda, calcium chloride) are included in the flat monthly rate with no separate markup.

How much does weekly pool service cost in San Tan Valley?

Traditional Pool Service offers three flat-rate plans. Chemicals Only (testing and balancing, no cleaning) starts at $110/month. Full Weekly Service (cleaning plus chemicals) starts at $170/month. Complete Care (full service plus quarterly filter cleaning and salt cell care) starts at $220/month. All three are flat monthly rates — the price doesn't change because of a hot month or extra chemical use.

What's included in pool service?

Every plan includes weekly water testing and chemical balancing. Full Weekly Service and Complete Care add weekly skimming, brushing, vacuuming as needed, and emptying skimmer and pump baskets. Complete Care also includes quarterly filter cleaning and salt cell cleaning at no extra charge.

Service is month-to-month. There is no long-term contract to sign.

Who actually comes to my pool each week?

Familiar technicians on your regular route — not a rotating cast of subcontractors. Traditional Pool Service is a local, owner-founded company serving San Tan Valley, Magma Ranch, Copper Basin, and Johnson Ranch, Arizona.

What areas do you serve?

We provide pool service in San Tan Valley, Magma Ranch, Copper Basin, Johnson Ranch, and the surrounding East Valley area of Arizona.

Do you service salt pools?

Yes. Salt cell cleaning is included on the Complete Care plan, and salt pools are serviced the same as chlorine pools on every tier.

What happens if my cyanuric acid (CYA) gets too high?

High CYA from stabilized chlorine tabs can reduce how effective your free chlorine is, even when the reading looks normal. Weekly testing catches this drift early — a partial drain and refill is usually the fix if CYA climbs too high, and it's something we watch for as part of routine service.

Pool Troubleshooting Guide & Toolkit

Use this free pool troubleshooting guide to diagnose common pool problems — cloudy water, algae, strong chlorine smell, stains, equipment noise, and more — the same way our technicians would on-site. The toolkit also includes a water balance calculator, a chemical compatibility checker, a DIY-vs-weekly-service cost comparison, a hiring checklist, an Arizona seasonal care calendar, and a pool volume calculator. Scroll down to get started, or jump straight to whichever tool you need. Learn more about pool care standards from the Pool & Hot Tub Alliance.

Pool Owner Toolkit

Brought to you by Blue Arrow Pools

Clean. Consistent. Honest.

Free tools from Blue Arrow Pools to help you understand your pool, check your own numbers, and make smart decisions, the same way we’d work through it on-site.

Select a symptom to begin

A Homeowner’s Guide

Summer Chemical Costs and CYA: The Hidden Cost of Using Tabs

Blue Arrow Pools

What Is CYA, in Plain Terms?

CYA (cyanuric acid) works like sunscreen for your pool’s chlorine. Arizona sun breaks down unprotected chlorine in a matter of hours — CYA slows that breakdown way down, so the chlorine you’re paying for actually sticks around and does its job instead of burning off in the sun.

But sunscreen has a tradeoff: too much of it, and the chlorine underneath gets a little muted — it takes a slightly higher chlorine reading to have the same real sanitizing strength. That relationship between your CYA level and how much chlorine you actually need is the single biggest hidden driver of your weekly chemical cost.

Where the 7.5% Number Comes From

A common industry rule of thumb says free chlorine should run around 7.5% of your CYA reading — for a CYA of 40, that works out to about 3 ppm. It’s a useful reference point, but it isn’t the number we dose to. We hold a tested floor and let the actual test results — not a fixed percentage — set the dose each visit.

This 7.5% figure isn’t a house rule — it’s the residential pool industry’s standard reference point, popularized by pool chemistry researcher Bob Lowry alongside Ben Powell and Richard Falk through Trouble Free Pool, and used by residential technicians nationwide since 2007. It reflects the real-world balance between CYA’s UV protection and its chlorine-muting effect.

Source: Bob Lowry, “A Practical Take on the ‘Great CYA Debate,'” AQUA Magazine.

How Tabs Quietly Drive CYA Up All Season

Chlorine tabs (trichlor) are convenient — drop them in a floater or feeder and they dissolve on their own. But trichlor isn’t just chlorine: roughly half of every tab is cyanuric acid. Every tab you use adds a little more CYA to the water, and unlike chlorine, CYA never breaks down or burns off. It only leaves the pool when water leaves the pool — splash-out, backwashing, or a drain and refill.

The commonly cited industry rate: for every 10 ppm of free chlorine added to the water by trichlor, CYA rises by about 6 ppm. In a pool relying on tabs as its main chlorine source through summer, that typically works out to somewhere around 20–25 ppm of CYA creep per month. It arrives a few tenths of a ppm at a time, so nobody notices until a test strip finally reads triple digits.

Source: Trouble Free Pool (“CYA Buildup: What Level?”); Bob Lowry, AQUA Magazine, “Key Misunderstandings and Problems in Pool Water Chemistry.”

Here’s the part that actually costs you money: our tested floor is set as a percentage of your CYA reading, not a flat number. So as tabs quietly push CYA higher all season, the amount of chlorine required to hold that floor climbs right along with it — even if nothing else about the pool has changed. You end up paying more for liquid chlorine and acid just to keep pace with a number that crept up on its own.

See it play out over a season

Enter your pool’s volume and a CYA reading for the start and end of swim season below.

Pool Volume (gallons)

CYA on April 1

CYA on September 30 (Unmanaged)

What Changes the “Max” Scenario

The rule-of-thumb number above assumes a pool that’s clean and consistently maintained. The Max scenario below shows what a poorly managed pool actually costs to bring back into line — one dealing with chloramines (used-up chlorine that’s now just an odor and eye irritant), algae, or built-up organic debris from leaves, dust, and bather load.

Here’s why that costs more: chlorine has one job at a time. In a neglected pool, most of the chlorine you add gets consumed fighting off the backlog of contamination before any of it is left over to actually protect the water. It’s the difference between routine upkeep and playing catch-up — catch-up always costs more.

Common rule of thumb — 7.5% of CYA

Clean, well-maintained pool. Chlorine is doing its normal job.

Ceiling / poorly managed — not a weekly target

15% of CYA — what a pool fighting chloramines, algae, or organic debris costs to recover, not a routine target.

Your Chlorine Cost

Enter what you actually pay per gallon of 12.5% commercial grade liquid chlorine — this number drives every estimate below.

Chlorine cost ($/gallon)

Estimate Your Pool’s Monthly Summer Chemical Cost

Enter your pool’s volume and current CYA reading to see the estimated monthly cost of chlorine, plus an allowance for acid and other basic maintenance chemicals.

Pool Volume (gallons)

Current CYA (ppm)

Your Estimated Monthly Cost

See the Full Picture

This chart shows how monthly chemical cost climbs as CYA rises — for both a well-maintained pool and a neglected one, using your chlorine cost above. Enter your pool’s volume, then a CYA level, to see exactly where you land on both lines.

Pool Volume (gallons)

CYA Level for Crosshair (ppm)

Ideal (Well-Maintained)

Max (Poorly Managed)

What this estimates: the cost to bring your pool’s chlorine from a depleted 1 ppm up to the minimum safe floor for its CYA level. “Ideal” uses the 7.5%-of-CYA industry rule of thumb cited above; “Max” uses the 15%-of-CYA ceiling from our own service policy, the point where chloramines, algae, or organic debris are consuming most of the chlorine before any is left to sanitize. Both include a calibrated allowance for acid and other basic maintenance chemicals alongside chlorine, using the price you enter above rather than a fixed retail assumption.

Not sure what your pool actually needs? We test and dose this correctly every week.

Call (480) 779-8701

Chemical Cost Estimate Disclaimer

This calculator provides a rough estimate only, for a generic residential pool that uses standard chemicals, and does not reflect the exact chemical needs or costs of your specific pool. Actual results will vary based on factors this tool does not account for, including but not limited to: bather load, surrounding foliage and debris, sun exposure, equipment condition, chlorine enhancers, existing water chemistry, algae or organic contamination, and regional water quality.

Chlorine, acid, and tab prices shown are based on figures you enter or a default estimate, and may not reflect current retail prices in your area. Blue Arrow Pools, LLC does not verify or guarantee these prices and is not responsible for discrepancies between this estimate and your actual purchase costs.

The dosing formulas used here reflect Blue Arrow Pools, LLC’s own internal methodology and commonly cited industry reference points (including the 7.5% and 15% CYA-to-chlorine guidelines). Other pool professionals, manufacturers, or health authorities may recommend different standards. This tool is not a substitute for professional water testing, and should not be used as the sole basis for determining whether your pool’s chemical levels are safe.

Handling pool chemicals carries real safety risks. Always follow manufacturer instructions and safety data sheets, never mix chemicals directly, and store and handle chlorine and acid products according to label directions. This tool provides no guidance on safe handling, storage, or application of pool chemicals.

This estimate is provided for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice, a quote, or a guarantee of any kind — including guarantees of cost savings, water safety, or water quality outcomes. Blue Arrow Pools, LLC disclaims all liability for decisions made, or actions taken, based on this tool.

Langelier Saturation Index (LSI)

This is the same calculation we use on-site to tell if water is corrosive, balanced, or heading toward scale — not just whether each number is “in range” on its own.

Water Temp (°F)

Calcium Hardness (ppm)

Total Alkalinity (ppm)

Cyanuric Acid (ppm)

Cyanuric acid is always factored in — it’s converted to a carbonate alkalinity correction automatically. Enter 0 if you’re not using stabilized chlorine.

I know my TDS reading

Not sure how to safely make these adjustments? We test and balance this exact calculation every week.

Call (480) 779-8701

How this calculation actually works

The Six Factors of LSI

pH — The measure of how acidic or basic the water is. It’s the most heavily weighted factor in the equation.

Water Temperature — Warmer water increases scaling tendencies; cooler water lowers the index.

Calcium Hardness — The amount of dissolved calcium in the water. Low levels cause water to leach calcium from surfaces; high levels promote scaling.

Carbonate Alkalinity — The water’s buffer capacity (carbonate and bicarbonate species specifically), adjusted using a correction based on the current pH.

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) — Pool stabilizer. High levels bind with alkalinity, so a fraction of the CYA reading has to be subtracted from total alkalinity to find the true carbonate alkalinity — roughly one-third at a typical pH near 7.5.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) — The combined content of everything dissolved in the water, including salt in saltwater pools. Higher TDS subtracts from the index, pushing water toward corrosive.

How the Formula Works

LSI = pH + (Temp Factor) + (Calcium Factor) + [(Alkalinity) − (CYA correction)] − (TDS Factor)

Balanced range: −0.3 to +0.3.

Corrosive / etching (below −0.3): water is undersaturated and pulls minerals out of pool walls, plaster, and pipes.

Scale-forming (above +0.3): water is oversaturated and deposits calcium carbonate onto surfaces and equipment.

For the fastest answer, use the tool above. A full text reference is available below.

Topic Reference

Cloudy / Hazy Water

Overdue filter

A loaded filter can’t polish water or push flow properly, regardless of chemistry. High filter pressure (8–10 psi above clean baseline) is the usual sign.

Scaling chemistry

High pH or calcium hardness pushes water toward depositing minerals, showing up as a fine haze before visible scale.

Early algae / organic load

Free chlorine under-target for the pool’s CYA level lets algae get a foothold before it turns visibly green.

High total dissolved solids

Water that’s been in the pool a long time (roughly a year or more) accumulates dissolved solids that chemical adjustment alone won’t fix.

Green / Algae Tint

Standard green algae

Free chlorine has been too low for too long relative to demand. Fix involves testing, brushing every surface, shocking to breakpoint, and running the filter continuously until clear.

Stabilizer lock

High cyanuric acid (CYA) holds back free chlorine in reserve, so a normal-looking chlorine reading is no longer enough. Usually needs a partial drain and refill.

Strong Chlorine Smell / Eye & Skin Irritation

Chloramines

A sharp smell or irritation is almost never “too much chlorine” — it’s combined chlorine reacting with sweat, oils, and sunscreen. The fix is shocking to breakpoint, not adding less chlorine.

Low pH

Acidic water is a common real cause of stinging eyes and dry skin, even when chlorine looks normal.

Free chlorine too high

Usually from shocking recently. Technically safe once it falls; let it sit and circulate.

Water Level Dropping

Normal evaporation

In Arizona summer heat, a quarter- to half-inch of loss per day is normal, no leak involved.

Suction-side leak

Loss that worsens specifically when the pump is running points to suction-side plumbing. Requires real leak detection equipment.

Structural or equipment pad leak

Loss that’s the same whether the pump is on or off usually points to the shell or a leak at the equipment pad.

Stains or Scale

Metal stain

Blue-green, blue-black, or reddish stains that respond to ascorbic acid are almost always metal, iron or copper from fill water or corroding equipment.

Calcium scale

Rough, light-colored deposits at the waterline or on tile are calcium coming out of solution after pH or alkalinity ran high.

Organic stain

Brown, green, or black marks shaped like the debris that caused them are organic material breaking down against the surface.

Heater, Equipment & Circulation Issues

Heater not heating, won’t turn on, or showing an error code

Usually an ignition, sensor, breaker, or control board issue. Worth a trained diagnosis before assuming the worst.

Gas smell at the heater

A safety emergency, not a maintenance issue. Leave the area immediately and contact the gas utility or 911.

Pump grinding, humming, rattling, or leaking

Commonly a failing motor bearing, seized impeller, loose mount, or failed seal. Turn the equipment off and have it inspected before it worsens.

Weak or poor circulation

Most often a dirty filter, blocked basket, closed valve, or air leak on the suction side. Dead spots can also mean the return jets need re-aiming.

Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Pool Company

Are you insured?

An uninsured company leaves you covering the cost yourself if something goes wrong on your property.

Are your technicians certified (CPO or PHTA)?

Certification means real training on water chemistry and safety, not just a truck and a chemical scoop.

Is your pricing flat-rate or metered by chemical usage?

Metered pricing can turn a normal month into a surprise bill during peak summer chlorine demand.

Do you mark up the chemicals you buy?

Some companies buy at wholesale and bill well above cost with no disclosure.

Is there a long-term contract, or is it month-to-month?

A company confident in its service usually doesn’t need to lock customers in to keep them.

How and when do rates increase?

An honest company states the increase schedule upfront rather than surprising customers later.

Will I have a consistent technician?

Consistency means someone who knows the pool’s quirks and history, not a rotating stranger each week.

What’s included in the monthly rate, and what gets billed separately?

“Full service” means very different things between companies — get specifics before signing up.

How will I know service actually happened?

Digital reports, photos, or logs confirm the pool was actually serviced, especially when the owner isn’t home.

What’s your cancellation policy, and who’s liable for equipment damage?

Should be simple and stated plainly upfront, not something worked out after the fact.

Summer Chemical Costs & CYA

What is CYA (cyanuric acid)?

A stabilizer that works like sunscreen for chlorine, slowing how fast Arizona sun burns it off. Too much of it mutes the chlorine, so a higher chlorine reading is needed to sanitize the same amount.

Where does the 7.5% rule of thumb come from?

It is a common residential-pool reference point that free chlorine should run around 7.5% of the CYA reading (about 3 ppm at a CYA of 40), popularized by pool chemistry researcher Bob Lowry and Trouble Free Pool. It is a reference point, not a dosing instruction.

How do chlorine tabs raise CYA?

Trichlor tabs are roughly half cyanuric acid. For about every 10 ppm of chlorine a tab adds, CYA rises about 6 ppm, and CYA never burns off. It only leaves with the water, through splash-out, backwashing, or a drain. In a pool that relies on tabs through summer, that can mean roughly 20–25 ppm of CYA creep per month.

Why does rising CYA cost money?

The chlorine needed to hold a safe level is set as a percentage of the CYA reading, so as CYA climbs all season, the liquid chlorine and acid needed to keep pace climb with it, even if nothing else about the pool changed.

What does a poorly managed pool cost compared to a well-maintained one?

A pool fighting chloramines, algae, or built-up organic debris uses up most of its chlorine on the backlog before any is left to protect the water. A ceiling of about 15% of CYA, double the rule of thumb, shows what catch-up costs. It is not a routine target.

Can I estimate my own summer chemical cost?

Yes. The Summer Chemical Costs tool lets you enter your pool volume, CYA reading, and what you pay per gallon of liquid chlorine to see an estimated monthly cost for a well-maintained pool, a poorly managed one, and a tab-based routine.

Arizona Seasonal Pool Care

Winter (Dec–Feb)

Demand eases with cooler water and lower sun angle. Good window for a deep filter cleaning and addressing equipment issues before summer.

Spring (Mar–May)

Last easy window to inspect equipment before peak season. Watch for early algae as water warms, and re-check CYA before summer chlorine demand ramps up.

Summer (Jun–Sep)

Faster evaporation (¼–½ inch a day is normal), monsoon debris and rain dilution, and CYA creep from frequent trichlor top-offs are the main things to watch.

Fall (Oct–Nov)

Debris picks up as landscaping trees shed. Good time to check for scale or mineral buildup left over from summer.

Text Us Instant Online Quote